Vladimir

The most ancient of Vladimir's surviving buildings is the Cathedral of the Dormition. It was begun in 1158 at the same time as the new capital's defense ring, of which only the Golden Gates remain. The chronicle tells us that for this grandiose project craftsmen came from all over the country. Among them were Europeans from the Roman West, allegedly sent to Prince Andrei by the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa; but there were no skilled craftsmen from Kiev. This was no accident, but rather a demonstrative rejection of Kievan assistance and the Kievan artistic tradition. Completed in 1160, the Dormition Cathedral rivaled Kiev's St. Sophia in monumentality and elegance.

The Cathedral of St. Demetrius. 1994-97

The importance of this cathedral in Russia's history is shown by the fact that, beginning with Yury Dolgoruky's son Mikhalka, all the Vladimir and Moscow princes ascended the throne there, including such powerful Russian military leaders and statesmen as Alexander Nevsky, Dmitry Donskoi and Ivan III. Up to the end of the first quarter of the 14th century the cathedral was the most important church in Russia.

The Cathedral of the Dormition has come down to our own times with extensions. In 1185 the cathedral was badly damaged by fire, and in 1185-89 it was surrounded with mighty walls and was thus boxed, as it were, inside the new building. Four more domes were mounted on the corners, making a total of five. Describing the building work of that period, the chronicler wrote with pride that this time there was no need to fetch craftsmen from abroad.

In the grounds of the ancient Kremlin founded by Vladimir Monomakh are two of the city's most remarkable monuments. We have already seen one of them, the Cathedral of the Dormition. As we go a little closer to the limestone Cathedral of St. Demetrius (1194-97), we notice that the dome on the high drum is topped with a golden 'helmet'.

The Cathedral of St. Demetrius was part of the prince's palace complex. It is one of the most perfect specimens of work by the Vladimir-Suzdal architects. Built during the years of North-East Russia's power and prosperity, solemn, calm, richly decorated with bas-reliefs, it seems to personify the power and wealth of the Vladimir Principality. Together with the columns of the blind arcade, each of which ends in a sculpture, there are over 1,300 bas-reliefs on the cathedral walls. All three portals and the cathedral drum, with its narrow slit-shaped windows, are cunningly decorated with carvings. Even the five corner columns are in the form of animal claws digging into the ground.

The Cathedral of St. Demetrius was built with blocks of white limestone. Since, at the time, this soft, easily worked stone was the main building material for churches and princes' palaces, all the Vladimir-Suzdal architecture of the 12th -- 13th centuries is known as whitestone.

Bogolyubovo. Cathedral of the Dormition. 19th c.

After viewing the Cathedral of St. Demetrius, note the 18th-19th-century civic buildings in the ancient center of Vladimir. Between the Cathedral of St. Demetrius and the Cathedral of the Dormition are the former offices (Prisutstvennyie Mesta), an 18th-century administrative building in the Russian neo-classical style. Particularly beautiful are its side facades, decorated with columns of the Corinthian order. Not far from the monument in honor of the 850th anniversary of Vladimir stands the building of the former Nobles' Assembly (Dvoryanskoye Sobraniye), 1826. It bears marked traces of the enthusiasm among the architects at that time for ancient Greek culture and art. Directly adjoining the building of the Nobles' Assembly is another Russian neo-classical monument -- the former boys' high school. It is decorated with an eight-columned Doric portico that gives the whole structure a ceremonial appearance.

After viewing the Russian neo-classical monuments we come out on to Moscow Street, the town's main thoroughfare, and at its far end we see the famous Golden Gates.

The Golden Gates of Vladimir were built in 1158-64 and, like the Golden Gates of Kiev, were the main entrance way to the town. They were called golden because the massive oak leaves were originally covered with gilded sheet copper. As you look round the monuments in Vladimir, you cannot possibly miss the Golden Gates. Their well-proportioned mass can be seen from a distance. On the way you can go shopping for souvenirs, books on Russian and Soviet art, and guidebooks. The Golden Gates were the main defense bastion of the west part of the town and also served as a triumphal arch.

Church of the Intercession on the Nerl. 1165

As in any ancient Russian town, the new is cheek by jowl with the old in Vladimir. Near the Golden Gates, in the red brick building of the former town church, there is a museum exhibition of works by contemporary artists: caskets by miniaturists, embroidery from the world-famous village of Mstyora in the Vladimir Region, articles by the glassblowere of Gus Khrustalny, and jewelry.

Vladimir is impressive for the variety and number of its museums. The Sungir Archaeological Museum was opened recently on the east fringe of the town. Sungir, the northernmost settlement in Europe of the Upper Palaeolithic Period (Stone Age), was discovered by archaeologists in 1957. The Sungir Museum is not far from Bogolyubovo. Once the country residence of the Vladimir princes, this is now a favorite beauty spot for the townsfolk and for tourists.

A kilometer away from Bogolyubovo, reflected in the tranquil and clear waters left by the river Klyazma, are white walls and the dome of a solitary church. This is the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl (1165). It is famous for its ideal proportions and the soft outlines of the whitestone carvings. The church stands on a man-made hill. In ancient times this was paved with white stone and had a drainage system. The church foundations are exceptionally deep (530 centimeters).